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Resuscitated on the beach, she survived to later surf the biggest wave of the 2019-2020 season in Nazaré – a first for a woman in surfing – but her near-miss, one of several close calls featured in the series (it appears almost every surfer has one, including the lingering trauma), stands as a reminder for how severely things can go awry. The series includes footage from the 2013 crash of the Brazilian big-wave surfer Maya Gabeira, who was held underwater for several minutes, then accidentally towed facedown toward the shore. The blunt force of a wipeout, especially on a jet ski, could knock someone unconscious miscommunications can leave a rider stranded in pounding surf. It’s also, of course, incredibly dangerous. “If I’m physically feeling ready, then fear does not enter my mind. When he catches a mega wave, it’s like “being a kid in a candy store, just freaking out,” said McNamara. It’s a risk several big-wave surfers justify throughout the series as something close to nirvana – precision focus, a sublime collision of fear and awe, a sensation of flying that kneads and stretches time. The surfers appear as a speck on a sea monster, traveling 50 miles an hour or more down the slope of a 10-storey building.
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When all goes well, the footage feels, even from a distance, chilling, CGI animation rather than documentary. The chaos breeds heightened danger and occasional magic 100 Foot Wave features at least one of each per episode, from McNamara’s record-setting ride on a 78ft wave in 2011 to his 2016 wipeout on a 50-footer at California’s Mavericks, which shredded his shoulder and launched a painful years-long recovery process. “But then in Nazaré, every set comes into a different spot,” she said, “every wave breaks differently, some wedge, some barrel, some don’t do anything.” At a typical big-wave surf spot, such as Maui’s Jaws, waves break in the same place, with established zones for catching and waiting out waves. “Nobody really realizes how unpredictable Nazaré is,” said Nicole McNamara. “In this wave you’re never safe, because there is no channel.” Unlike traditional big-wave hotspots such as northern California’s Half Moon Bay or Hawaii’s Waimea Bay, the waves at Nazaré are “very chaotic and very unpredictable,” Garrett McNamara told the Guardian. Nazaré is singular both in scale and consistency – waves the height of multistorey buildings regularly roll in throughout the winter, the product of a huge ocean canyon, 125 miles long and three times as deep as the Grand Canyon, that terminates just off the town’s shoreline. “When we pulled up and saw the waves,” Nicole told the Guardian, “Garrett just looked at the kid” – a videographer sent by the town’s city hall – “and said ‘Do not turn off the camera.’ And every day it was just a constant reminder of ‘Film this, film this, film this – because we knew what we found was super special.” It was stormy, so windy the crew could barely open their car doors. In 2010, five years after Casimiro’s offer, McNamara and his now wife and manager, Nicole, went straight from the airport to the Nazaré’s 17th-century lighthouse, long abandoned. And he was looking for what seemed an unfathomable prize: a 100ft wave, the ocean’s Everest, potentially possible under fluke conditions at a few spots in the world. He’d won the Tow Surfing World Cup in Maui in 2002, traveled from California to Tahiti, surfed the tsunami of a calving glacier in Alaska. McNamara, 53, would know a pioneer of big-wave surfing, in which jet skis tow a surfer in and out of pounding swells, he had pushed the boundaries of what’s considered surf-able throughout the 2000s. So Casimiro emailed the photo to American surfer Garrett McNamara with a simple question: could you come see if my wave is that big? “I immediately thought that I need to do something,” he recalls in 100 Foot Wave, a new documentary series for HBO. The image was stark, magnetic – a wave that appears at level with the cliff, the whitewater break like a cumulus cloud. In 2005, Dino Casimiro, a sports teacher in the fishing village of Nazaré, Portugal, snapped a photo of what he had long observed from the seaside cliffs: swells in the Atlantic the size of buildings, so feared and unpredictable it seemed everyone in town knew of someone who had been lost at sea.